I set the gain on the little subwoofer amp to ¼ and it had the windows rattling so I had to dial it back. The components seem to work well together.
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When I turned it all on I was well pleased with how it all sounds. I got some of the components from Crutchfield and I have to admit having the trim dis-assembly instructions that Crutchfield supplied saved me a lot of headaches. Other than that it was all pretty straight forward. Just open the holes a little at a time until you can just press them through and it works good. They just pressed in and kind of snapped into place.
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There was no need to attach them any other way. The Infinity tweeters press fit in the holes real nice once they were opened up. I just used a dremel tool with some sandpaper attached and slowly opened the holes. I used the rear seat mount bolt to make the negative connection but note that the bolt was coated in something non-conductive so I had to take the bolt to the grinder and use the wire wheel to remove the coating so it would make the electrical connection.įitting the tweeters into the A pillars wasn’t as bad as I thought it might be. The factory wires are pretty small and I wasn’t overly fired up to use them but I just had no interest in drilling holes in the doors. I chose to not drill so I just ran my speaker wires from the amp to the back of the stereo and accessed the speaker wires there and used the factory wires. There is not any access to run larger wires into the door without drilling and adding a 2nd rubber access tube. In the 2013 the rubber tube terminates in a connector / plug. When I did the stereo in my 08 F150 there was access to the doors through the rubber tubing that runs between the car body and the door. The second issue is wiring the speakers in both the front and rear doors. I ended up using some ½”- 13 nuts as standoffs since I had some laying in my toolbox. The good news is there is plenty of room between the door frame and the interior door cover so once I got the speakers clearanced from the back they fit fine. I ended up having to use 3/8” standoffs to keep the Infinity Kappa speakers from interfering with the windows. First is that the front door speaker depth is pretty shallow. There were a couple of issues that I think should be noted by anyone doing this. I completed the installation over the weekend. (If I had known I was going to have to use the factory wires for the speakers I would have used 16 or 18 gage since that’s what the factory wires look like). Infinity Kappa 680.9 Front Component Speakers I got the lower end Kenwood head and am using the Bluetooth from Sync. It took 2 phone calls but they held my hand through it. Super helpful support from the Maestro factory. Once I got it wired up correctly the system works pretty good. I decided to go for the Kenwood / Maestro in order to keep the sync and steering controls. It helped a little but not nearly as much as I would have liked. My first try was to replace the factory head with a Kenwood DDX270 using the Maestro RR interface box. After a few months of suffering with the terrible sound of the factory system in the new truck, I have decided it’s time to upgrade the stereo system. Well thats it for now.I recently upgraded from my 2008 XL regular cab to a 2013 XLT Super Crew. I bought KnuKonceptz connectors with the screw set. couldnt find my heat gun so I used the toaster over. I cut a piece off to run to battery to the inline fuse all purty like. Ill probably trim some more off after when I decide where the amp lands. And even after I ran the cable all the to the drivers side of the back and left a little slack I cut it and had 5 feet left. It was a 20 foot cable ( I bought a 20 so I would enough left over for a ground wire). I couldnt find it on the inside but then my 15 year old reached up and found it first try! I proceeded to run it down the passenger side in the well underneath the coversthen behind the carpet along the back behind the back seats. I used a fish tape from outside the truck into the cab. it's hot out there!įord gave us a PERFECT place to run the wire right behind the battery on the firewall with a perfectly places and sized grommet (it will fit 0 gauge for sure too). I absolutely will be changing them in phase 2. I am not changing the stock speakers in the first phase. I am using a Alpine S-W10D4 subwoofer wired to 2OHMĦ. I have a Fox Acoustics ported 10" Fox Boxĥ.
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I am re-using my Pioneer D9605 amplifier that I had in my last truck (07 Chevy Avalanche) - it's a 5 channel amp with 75x4 (4OHM) and 600x1 (2OHM).Ĥ. I am using HUSH AUDIO CK11 pre-built harness (recommended as it looks freaking clean as hell!)ģ. I have a pretty clear plan, I am just documenting it because you never know if it will help someone else.ġ. First, I am not looking for advice but its always welcome.